We are in Reyhanlı, Turkey, specifically to have dinner with the relatives of our San Diego next door neighbor (who grew up in Reyhanlı).  There are other fun places we will visit in the area, but we are starting with Reyhanlı.

First of all, it’s Reyhanlı, not Reyhanli.  Notice the final character: it is a dotless lowercase I.  Secondly, the Internet thinks Reyhanlı is all about terrorists, but the Internet, surprisingly, is in error.

Okay, where the heck is Reyhanlı?  It’s in Turkey very near the Mediterranean Sea and about 5 kilometers from Syria, on the main road that runs between İskenderun, Turkey and Aleppo, Syria.  Does that help?  Okay, maybe a map would be better.

Reyhanlı, Turkey, right where you'd expect it to be.

Reyhanlı, Turkey, right where you’d expect it to be.

See the tiny red dot in the middle?  That’s us!

The Feast of Reyhanlı

We arrive at the flat and are greeted by more people than we can remember.  We are a bit nervous, hoping that we don’t say or do anything to embarrass our hosts, and we expect they have the same concerns.  We are led past the kitchen and other rooms with closed doors until we arrive in the (we suppose) living room.  We sit on a comfortable couch and watch our hosts curiously as they watch us in the same way.  Fortunately, many of people in the house speak English, so conversation is possible.  🙂 

We ask questions about them and they ask questions about us.  There are enough people who speak both Turkish and English that no one is left out of the conversation.

One of the first questions our hosts asks us is this: Do you want to eat at the table, or on the floor in traditional Turkish style?  Well, better the adventure you’ve never tried, right?  The women quickly lay down a plastic “tablecloth” over the rug, then serve the food in front of us, family-style. 

Unending supply of food, ready to be eaten.

Unending supply of food, ready to be eaten.

This photograph does not do justice to the delicious flavors wafting up from the food, nor the sense of excitement because we are about to indulge in an authentic Turkish feast in Turkey with Turks.  The food is hot and delicious.

To keep a sense of cultural influences, we, as guests, are seated in a place of our choosing.  All the plates, utensils, food, and everything else are brought out and set by the women of the house.  The men continue the lively conversations with their guests.

Part of the dinner party, enjoying dinner.

Part of the dinner party, enjoying dinner.

That’s not to say the women are subservient; rather, there are set responsibilities, understood by all.  You can see here the smiling faces.

Don't drop any food on the floor!

Don’t drop any food on the floor!

We admit that this sitting position was not entirely comfortable.  It’s not so much sitting cross-legged, but rather leaning over those crossed legs to politely eat.  You can see that a few people were able to position their legs differently, but we were not. Still, it’s a small price to pay for the experience.

And the food just keeps on coming!

And the food just keeps on coming!

What we quickly learn is that, if we finish any particular food, such as the chicken, someone puts another piece of chicken on our plate.  Despite our “eat everything on your plate” brainwashing, we are forced to leave a full plate of food to indicate we had eaten enough.  (We want to eat more but our friend had taken us out for a “light snack” just a couple of hours earlier so we weren’t very hungry.) 

At the end of dinner, the young women offer us Turkish coffee, and tea with cookies. I try Turkish coffee which is quite strong so I only finish about half of the cup. One of the nieces then asks if we want tea and, when I said “No, thank you”, she has a look of concern and bites her bottom lip. Uh oh, I think I made a cultural faux-pas!  But, I’m well past “full”, and if I don’t say, “No,” the food and drink won’t stop!

Okay, that’s not a criticism.  Rather, it’s an acknowledgement that our cultural influences do not always align with others, and we have to accept that everyone is trying their best to be polite and generous.

A few notes.

The fellow in the lower right of the above photograph is the family Patriarch.  He has 3 concurrent wives, 15 children, and 76 grandchildren (so each grandchild has 75 cousins.)  For a good part of our visit, he channel-surfed a handful of Turkish TV stations.  When he left the room (we think it was to go on the patio to smoke), one of the women immediately turned off the TV—then quickly asked the male guests if they wanted to continue watching.

The girl in the orange chair (above) spoke with us after dinner and was very concerned that we were childfree.  She said, “I won’t ask any more questions… but… I’m worried for you”. I don’t know if she was worried about my health, or of who will take care of me when I’m old, or ??  But it was a sweet gesture.  In Turkey, it seemed rare to see any woman walking around without a baby and/or child in hand. 

This gives a good perspective into the interrelationships of Middle Eastern people.  In Turkey, if you lose your job, one of your relatives will find one for you.  There is always a family member to watch your house, your business, or your children.  The idea of having a family of “just the two of us” doesn’t seem to exist in this culture.

Our neighbor spent a full month in Turkey with his wife and four daughters.  He bought a used van so he could carry everyone (including us for a few days).  When he left, he simply gave the van to a relative, knowing it would be cared for and available next time he visited.

Okay, let’s see what else there is to see in this great land!

Ottoman Palace

While relaxing in Reyhanlı, we are staying at the Güngör Ottoman Palace, a hotel “designed and constructed a way befitting the greatness of title,” just outside the city of Antakya.  The hotel is, indeed, splendid.

The entrance to the Ottoman Palace, "registered in the ministry of tourism is the only five-star hotel."

The entrance to the Ottoman Palace, “registered in the ministry of tourism is the only five-star hotel.”

Note that the two fellows on either side of the doorway are not real.  Well, they are “real”, just not real people.

Some of the elegant sitting rooms at the hotel.

Some of the elegant sitting rooms at the hotel.

The lobby is designed to impress, and it does.  All the furniture and fixtures are in keeping with the Ottoman Empire theme, and the hotel has a quiet elegance to it.

A portion of the lobby, seen from the second floor.

A portion of the lobby, seen from the second floor.

The lobby is spacious and seems to always be empty.  We aren’t sure why a hotel was built on the outskirts of a city that seems to have no particular tourist draw, but what do we know?

Bayezid I is always watching...

Bayezid I is always watching…

The hotel has many pieces of art, including this one showing Bayezid I, looking at us as if to say, “Well?  I’m waiting!!”   Notice the fancy turban; we look, but do not find any to purchase.  Man, that would have been cool!  😎 

The hotel has many other works of art.  Here are a few for you to enjoy.

Enough of the lobby.  Check out the bed in our room!

Hearts, swans, and rose petals!

Hearts, swans, and rose petals!

We don’t know what we did to deserve this, but we are certain impressed with the care—and fun—the staff puts into helping us enjoy our stay!

Redheads and billiards naturally go together.

Redheads and billiards naturally go together.

The hotel has many amenities, including a game room, thermal tubs, massages, a very nice restaurant, and both indoor and outdoor swimming pools.

Beer: the cause of, and solution to, all of life's problems.

Beer: the cause of, and solution to, all of life’s problems.

As usual, we have the restaurant almost entirely to ourselves.  Well, if you can’t travel in shoulder season, at least travel off the beaten path.

Seven dimensions!

Seven dimensions!

We do not have time to see any seven-dimensional productions and, frankly, it frightens us just a little.

What the heck is that thing?

What the heck is that thing?

There is a roundabout near the hotel with a sculpture that’s also a fountain.   The sculpture is, well, unusual.  Okay, it’s ugly.  There, I said it.

A very important sign!!!

A very important sign!!!

Have you ever seen so many exclamation points?  This must be important!!!  Let’s use Google Translate.

No wasted seedlings!
All inclusive except Waste!
No waste, no treats!
As a result, respect for the environment is respect for people.
Respect for the environment is the duty and responsibility of the person to himself!

However, Google Translate is somewhat imperfect, as you can see below.  So, we just have to assume that their intentions are good.

Oh, my.

Oh, my.

Yes, there seems to be somewhat different translations based on punctuation.  Feel free to try it yourself.  Just use different punctuation!!!

İsraf olmasın fidan olsun!

No, we did not forget the most important part of the Güngör Ottoman Palace: waterslides!

A slide for everyone's tastes.

A slide for everyone’s tastes.

Notice the lack of lifeguards or any other adult controlling access to the slides.  The stairs leading to the top of the slide are wet and uneven, and there are no handrails. Turkey has a very relaxed attitude toward such things.  If you hurt yourself in Turkey, you do not sue anyone for damages, even if the other party was negligent.  Rather, you are expected to watch out for yourself and make reasonable decisions.  Thus, each slider waits until the previous slider is safely out of the way before launching.

Sensible, isn’t it?

On the other hand, people smoke and drink from glass containers poolside, so that’s not cool.

The view is pretty nice up here.

The view is pretty nice up here.

Besides the slide pool, there is a second, much larger outdoor pool that is deeper.  For reasons we don’t know, there are no diving boards.  Maybe Turks can’t dive?  

Sliding with an attitude.

Sliding with an attitude.

Except for standing up, I think there are no restrictions on sliding.  At least, there are none posted.  Well, none in English…

Yippee ki-yay!

Yippee ki-yay!

Sometimes, friends and family slide down in a cluster.  Well, why not?

Check out the sliders on the wide slide.

Check out the sliders on the wide slide.

The wide slide allows us sliders to spin, curl, tuck, change directions, and do just about anything we want.  Sweet.

Never let your religion keep you from fun.

Never let your religion keep you from fun.

Although many sliders wear skimpy swimming attire, other sliders prefer to keep themselves covered but for their hands and face.  I wonder if they go down the slide faster…

Defne Apollon’un Gözyaşları

It’s time for lunch, so we are off to Defne Apollon’un Gözyaşları, a restaurant that appears to have something of a plumbing issue.

Jump in!  Get your feet wet!

Jump in! Get your feet wet!

Nope.  This restaurant, like many others in this area, is built in a river bed of a cool spring.  As you can see from the photograph, not everyone finds enjoyment in soaking their tootsies in cool water, but we do.  😎 

Lunch by a waterfall. How romantic!

Lunch by a waterfall. How romantic!

The food is tasty and, of course, so is the beer, and if you need to spit, well, don’t.  That’s nasty no matter where you are!

This corner of the restaurant has waterfalls cascading on the rocks.

This corner of the restaurant has waterfalls cascading on the rocks.

The sign with the red lettering contains a quotation from Can Yücel’s poem, Farkında Olmalı İnsan.  You can put the phrase into Google Translate and find all kinds of interesting meanings depending on punctuation and line breaks….but, I suppose a poet would understand that poems are meant to be interpreted by the listener/reader.

Titus Tunnel

Our host takes us to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site Vespasianus Titus Tunnel.

Maybe "Vespasianus" couldn't fit on the sign.

Maybe “Vespasianus” couldn’t fit on the sign.

The Turks thoughtfully provide a translation for “Titus Tüneli” in case of confusion.

This "tunnel" doesn't live up to the hype.

This “tunnel” doesn’t live up to the hype.

We have been walking for a bit, and still no tunnel.  Still, it’s a beautiful day, so we are happy.

Now that's what I'm talkin' about.

Now that’s what I’m talkin’ about.

We finally arrive at the actual tunnel, and it’s pretty cool.  The lights in the darkness are other visitors using flashlights (probably phones) to better see the ground.

People built this about 2,000 years ago.  Amazing.

People built this about 2,000 years ago. Amazing.

According to the Internet: The height of this 64 meter long channel reaches up to 25-30 meters and becomes narrower close to the surface, because of former karst solution channels encountered along its alignment.

ECHO Echo echo...

ECHO Echo echo…

This photograph shows the size of the tunnel.  Elvis would have said, “That sucker’s huge!”

Checking to see if the Romans did a good job.

Checking to see if the Romans did a good job.

Romans were consummate engineers, and this bridge will probably be around in 2,000 more years.  Although, without guard rails, I don’t think it will ever be OSHA compliant.

The Tree of Moses on Defne Road

According to Jewish biblical stories, Moses was a poor child who was put in a reed basket, discovered by Egyptian royalty, and raised as one of them (see also Sargon of Akkad‘s birth circumstances).  According to Muslim biblical stories, Hizir (also known as al-Khadir, Khader, Khadr, Khedher, Khizr, Khizir, Khyzer, Qeezr, Qhezr, Qhizyer, Qhezar, Khizar, Xızır, Hızır) was a contemporary of Moses.

This tree is about 3,500 years old.

This tree is about 3,500 years old.

According to this sign by the municipality of Samandağ, these two fellows went to a mountain together and planted this very tree.  For some reason, Hizir’s name was omitted when the tree was named.

Fact: Moses was concerned with forestry.

Fact: Moses was concerned with forestry.

They won’t let us look into the tree to see what’s inside.  I wonder what they are hiding…

The many branches of the Moses tree, representing the many True Religions of the One True God.

The many branches of the Moses tree, representing the many True Religions of the One True God.

Despite this tree being a miracle tree, folks have taken a saw to it now and again.  I wonder if the part that’s cut off is also a miracle tree.

The water of immortality proves to be a disappointment.

The water of immortality proves to be a disappointment.

Below the Great Tree is the water of immortality that provided the miraculous growth of Moses’ wooden stick.  Sadly, the powers of immortality seem to be species-specific.

Water of immortality is cold!

Water of immortality is cold!

Well, as long as we are here, I might as well cool off my feet.  And maybe, just maybe, these very feet will be around in 3,500 years!

Nothing says "Happy" like water of immortality.

Nothing says “Happy” like water of immortality.

We see these people talking and point the camera at them and wave and, of course, they grace us with a smile.  Life is good in Turkey.  🙂 

There was a peaceful vibe throughout this village. Perhaps knowing they live among the Moses Tree helps keep everyone calm, connected, and compassionate. 

World Muslim Turkish Festival

The next adventure on our trip is to the World Muslim Turkish Festival, an afternoon filled with speeches, more speeches, and a few more speeches.  Fortunately for this magazine, I will not include those.  🙄 

The grounds of the World Muslim Turkish Festival.

The grounds of the World Muslim Turkish Festival.

The actual name of this festival is Dünya Müslüman Türkleri Buluşma Şöleni, which Google Translate thinks is “World Muslim Turks Meeting Feast”, but let’s stick with World Muslim Turkish Festival.

A heavy metal rocker on his noble steed.

A heavy metal rocker on his noble steed.

The festival has a number of skilled horsemen galloping their steed around the grounds.  The symbol being made with the gentleman’s right hand is the sign of the wolf, an indication of nationalism.

Muslim Turks ride as well as Turkish Muslims, in my opinion.

Muslim Turks ride as well as Turkish Muslims, in my opinion.

The riders enter the grounds singly or in groups.  Photographers are permitted to be on the grounds while the horses race past.

A boy and his horse.

A boy and his horse.

The lad handles his mount as skillfully as the adults.

If I have seen further, it is by standing on the shoulders of horses.

If I have seen further, it is by standing on the shoulders of horses.

This horse is, let’s say, temperamental, and the rider makes three attempts to stand before the horse remains still enough for him to succeed.

Please enjoy this gallery of riders and their horses!

Girl scouts and boy scouts look the same in every country.

Girl scouts and boy scouts look the same in every country.

We are treated to a parade of scouts proudly carrying their flags.  It’s good for us that the wind is blowing so we can see the flags, but you’ll notice that the flag carriers do not have flag carrying belts, so I expect those flags will get heavy after just a few minutes.

Jeez, I think I was 18 before I could grow a mustache!

Jeez, I think I was 18 before I could grow a mustache!

The proud Türkiye İzciler display their marching skills.  I had a very similar neckerchief when I was a scout.  Never knew what they were for, except perhaps to prepare us for wearing the equally useless tie when we get a fancy job.

A proud member of the Dünya Avşarlar Derneği.

A proud member of the Dünya Avşarlar Derneği.

This is a bit of a mystery.  “Dünya Avşarlar Derneği” seems to mean World Avşarlar Association, and “Avşarlar” seems to reference the Afshar people, but we can’t be sure.

Out of the way!  Comin' thru!

Out of the way! Comin’ thru!

The scouts walk around the ground, then pick up the pace and run past the stage and are gone.  We suspect there is substance to this ceremony, but, sadly, that substance is lost on us.  Still the procession is pretty cool.

A two-man tug-of-war is about to commence.

A two-man tug-of-war is about to commence.

Next, three mats are laid on the ground for two sets of competitors.  The goal is to physically force your opponent to join you, while your opponent strives to force you to join him.  ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

It is important to stare down your opponent.

It is important to stare down your opponent.

Note the fierce look of determination and the pronounced farmer’s tan, even down to the feet.

Dammit, man!  Come here!

Dammit, man! Come here!

This contest is inconclusive.  Rather than allow himself to be pulled to the far side of the barrier, the losing competitor releases his grip and remain safely on his side.  The pair begins again, and the process is repeated.

Let the music begin!

Let the music begin!

A traditional band entertains us with traditional Muslim Turkish music.  At least, we think it’s traditional Muslim Turkish music.  How would we know?

We are locally famous!

We are locally famous!

What is a World Muslim Turkish Festival without a speech (in English) by a couple of Californians?  Yes, we are asked to the stage and are introduced as “The Americans” visiting the festival, and we are handed a microphone.  “Thank you for your hospitality and friendship and for making us feel welcome at this festival.”  We doubt very many people understand our words but we are sure they understood our message.

And now we have new friends.

And now we have new friends.

We suddenly are locally famous… upon discovering our California heritage, the folks at the festival seek us out to pose with them.  Smile and say, “Peynir”.

Well, what else is happening at this festival?

Let's sit in the shade and have a picnic.

Let’s sit in the shade and have a picnic.

A couple finds an uncrowded spot at the festival to spend some quiet time.  I expect a visit from Cupid at any moment.

Hey, no spiking the ball!

Hey, no spiking the ball!

Festival-goers enjoy an impromptu game of net-less volleyball.  And when the ball falls to the ground, they kick it, soccer-style.

I'm only guessing, but I think they are watching cat videos.

I’m only guessing, but I think they are watching cat videos.

The ubiquitous mobile phone allows people across the planet to find diversions, even when attending the World Muslim Turkish Festival.

And I thought my cowboy hat was cool!

And I thought my cowboy hat was cool!

Nothings says “festival” more than a man wearing a platter of food for sale.  It is both a source of income and a shield from the hot Mediterranean sun.

Let’s pay a visit to Zirve Cafe and Piknik Yerleri for a snack!

Zirve Cafe and Piknik Yerleri

We are going to be VIPs!

We are going to be VIPs!

The cafe is quiet and comfortable, the perfect place for a picnic.

Now you can see where the cafe is.

Now you can see where the cafe is.

The cafe does not have a website, but if you go to this exact spot, you will find it.  😛 

The view from the restaurant showing the forests of southwest Turkey.

The view from the restaurant showing the forests of southwest Turkey.

It is beautiful here, and we are fortunate to have this scenic panorama of the Turkish countryside.

Lunch is served!

Lunch is served!

Since this is Turkey, the food is both delicious and plentiful.  Yum.

Awwww, how cute!

Awwww, how cute!

You know are at a traditional restaurant when you can sit on the floor. 

Okay, what about nightlife?  Not to worry; Turks love nightlife.

Soner Restaurant

We are spending the evening at the Soner Restaurant in Antakya.  The restaurant has delicious food and plenty to drink, as you might expect.

But that’s not why we are here.

Maybe they can't hear her singing?

Maybe they can’t hear her singing?

We are here to see the fabulous singer perform!  And, since this is Turkey, you can assume the rules are different.  At any time, someone will talk to the singer and she stop mid-verse and engage in a conversation.  Then she picks up right where she left off and continues singing.

Girls dance only with other girls.

Girls dance only with other girls.

In fact, when a few of us ladies begin to dance, our singer joins in and shares in the fun.

Boys dance only with other boys.

Boys dance only with other boys.

This is a variation of the “Bro Dance” that guys in America do at wedding when they don’t know how to dance.  We are just holding our arms out and lifting our shoulders.  Meh.

Superstars!

Superstars!

Here is something you might have missed.  The link for the Soner Restaurant is to a Facebook page.  If you’ve spent time clicking on links in the online magazine, you might have noticed that there are zero links to Facebook.

Okay, well now there is one Facebook link for the Soner Restaurant.  And if you’ll scroll down a bit to July 7, 2019, you’ll find a video of a man and woman dancing tango.  😎 

So, we must leave now.  Thank you for sharing our adventure with us!!!

awa Travels Tip:  When your neighbors invite you to their homeland, GO!  You will meet happy, friendly people and have a marvelous adventure!